Delving Into the Mysticism of Ard Mhacha…

Hey everyone! Welcome to my fourth in a series of travel blogs about the adventures I have gone on, as poet in residence at Belfast Grand Central Station and places you can travel to as well from the station.

Over the past few summers, I’ve made four trips to the John Hewitt International Summer School in the heart of Armagh—and each time, I’ve uncovered something new. Whether it’s a quiet corner of the Cathedral gardens or a story shared over coffee, this city always surprises me. 

I caught the early bus from Belfast Grand Central Station, tea in hand, and watched the fields stretch out as we left the city behind. The light was golden, the kind that makes everything feel possible. As we curved off the motorway and into The Orchard County, orange and white GAA bunting fluttered from lampposts—still celebrating Armagh’s All-Ireland triumph in July. 

My friend Byddi met me at the bus station, and we set off on our Armagh adventure. 

First stop: Seagahan Reservoir and Dam in Tassagh. The stillness there was unreal—just trees, water, and the feeling that the day hadn’t quite begun yet. From there, we followed winding paths and leafy roads to Navan Centre and Fort, nestled among rust-coloured trees that felt like the edge of autumn. 

After a strong coffee and one of the best homemade scones I’ve ever had, we watched a short film about Navan’s history and the fiery goddess Macha. Then came the tour—led by the kindest guide imaginable. The walk to the Fort was like something out of a storybook: ivy arches, fairy-tale paths, and echoes of St. Patrick’s Trail. Standing at the top, with the sun high and the spires of the city in the distance, I felt something ancient stir. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to write. 

As poet-in-residence at Belfast Grand Central Station, I’m always gathering moments like these—quiet, powerful, and full of story. They find their way into my writing, especially the poem I’m working on for the station itself. Armagh, with its layers of myth and memory, has given me plenty to carry home. 

Back in the city, we visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral, then stopped near The Market Place Theatre for a fry—complete with Armagh potato bread (and yes, apples!). At Cultúrlann Aonach Mhacha, we heard more tales of Macha and saw the incredible Armagh Rhymers headpieces, woven from flax, willow, and straw. 

Before heading home, we squeezed in a quick visit to the Armagh County Museum, wandering through exhibits that told the story of the city in fragments and artefacts. After a day full of mysticism, laughter, and Byddi’s brilliant storytelling, I stepped onto the bus and made my way back to Belfast Grand Central Station —my notebook a little fuller, my thoughts a little quieter. 

It’s a place that stays with you, and the Journey Planner makes the trip to Armagh straightforward whenever you’re ready to go.